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Homemade compression tester11/27/2023 If you ever find yourself faced with removing/cleaning of the SSV, you'll be using Sea-Foam if you want instant results and would like to avoid sacrificing an entire afternoon to scrubbing and soaking. Increased fuel economy is another benefit as well as reduced likelihood of sticking valves such as the SSV. To these people I say: "You're either using it wrong or you didn't need it in the first place." (The latter being the least likely of the two.) When done correctly it will eliminate vast amounts of carbon deposits leading to a smoother running engine throughout the entire power band, from idle to redline. It also comes up against a stubborn resistance from a relatively small number of rotary enthusiasts who regard it as nothing more than voodoo snake oil, incapable of yielding any noteworthy results. It possesses magical restorative properties when administered properly. 10w30 is a much better fit for rotary engines. BTW, Mazda's initial reccommendation of 5w30 for the RX-8 was short-lived and based purely on the fact that it added 1 MPG to it's fuel economy. I do have a RTC tool and have seen this method increase numbers by more than just a few points. (Though not as much as an upgraded starter, fresh coils, plugs and wires.) Skeptics may be surprised. (Don't switch to 20W50 if you live in Alaska!) Also helps with hot starts. I mean, whats the worst that could happen? Your engine is already on its way out. This is a cheap means by which to squeeze more life out of your fading engine and quite possibly restore a significant amount of power, plus it poses no risk. If your compression truly is low but the motor still wants to run, try switching to a thicker oil and changing it at more frequent intervals. If it slips, the test results will be void of accuracy. In order to fully trust the results of this test your clutch must be in proper working order. This test can also be performed with a couple of friends pushing the car forward if you don't happen to live near any hills or the car isn't currently capable of getting up one. Don't bother with any other gear above 2nd, not good for drivetrain. You can also perform this test in reverse with the car still pointing downhill. You may want to take advantage of the fact that you're already rolling down a hill by turning the key to "on" and allowing the car to start, if it will.Ĭars with "moderately OK" up to "acceptible" and even "good" compression will gradually build some speed and start to produce a sound slightly resembling that of a low idle. If you release the brake and that sucker takes off with no sign of stopping (almost like it's in neutral) I'm sorry, but your engine is TOAST. Do not do this for long periods of time, as there is currently no oil circulation or pressure.Ī rotary engine with PERFECT compression (if one existed) would come to what appears to be a very distinct stop before letting out a little puff and slipping forward again. It should slip, then abruptly catch and almost stop, then slip again, almost stop, slip, stop and on and on, sort of like it's lurching. The desired result is a slow, jerky motion that does not gain much speed at all. (Obviously, hill steepness is a variable here.) It's a matter of HOW FAST it rolls, HOW QUICKLY it GAINS SPEED and HOW SMOOTHLY it does so. Now release the brakes and observe the car's behavior. Put it in 1st gear, set e-brake and release clutchĭepress brake pedal and release hand brake Turn the ignition off (not just the engine)Ĥ. Go find a relatively steep hill or driveway with at least 12 feet of smooth, driveable area That being said, here's what you need to do: IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR ENGINE HAS FAILED DUE TO LOSS OF COMPRESSION BUT HAVE NO WAY TO TELL FOR SURE, THIS WILL GIVE YOU A DEFINITIVE CONCLUSION. IT'S PURPOSE IS TO AID IN TROUBLESHOOTING AND DIAGNOSING SPECIFIC SITUATIONS WHERE THE MALFUNCTION COULD BE COMPRESSION RELATED BUT MAY NOT BE AT ALL. THIS TEST DOES NOT PROVIDE NUMBERS THAT ARE DIRECTLY RELATED TO PSI OR RPM. THIS IS A RUDIMENTARY PROCEDURE PROVIDING RESULTS WHICH CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS USEFUL IN DETERMINING THE GENERAL STATUS, OR OVERALL COMPRESSION "HEALTH" OF A ROTARY ENGINE IN MODELS EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS ONLY. I'm going to be as clear as possible here.
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